Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for its altitude, but for its beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure encountered high on its flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads, and acclimatizing slowly. The mountain has gained in popularity over the past 8 years. It’s common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this climb. Mt Ama Dablam Expedition is unique and challenging trekking.
The climb feels like a 5.8 – 5.9 depending on conditions but it’s really hard to say because I have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000M. I would have to recommend allowing 5 weeks for this expedition, taking into consideration bad weather, sickness, and multiple summit attempts.
Information about how the peak gets its name:
Mother and her Necklace , Mother’s Charm Box , Mother’s Jewel Box “Ama” means mother, grandmother or even world. “Dablam” means charm box, and is a special pendant worn by elder Sherpa women that holds precious items. The mountain has a hanging glacier that resembles a dablam and the two extending ridges are outstreched like a maternal embrace.”